The story
Not a hotel buffet — a proper Balti table, arranged by Rawaan with a local host. Buckwheat prapu with walnut oil, steamed mamtu, salted butter tea: dishes shaped by altitude and long winters, and still cooked at home the way they always were.
What it feels like
Walnut oil and woodsmoke, a bukhari stove at your back, and food with a thousand years of altitude in it.
